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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary honour.